How do I install the system?

In general terms:

1) remove the 
2) discharge the a/c system safely
3) mount the KC and all the lines (pics below on where to splice into the A/C lines
4) recharge a/c system safely
5) check for leaks through all lines
6) re-install bumper

How should I recharge system?

Our OEM system is a 550gram (19.4oz) capacity system (MAX) of r134a. You will want to account for the K/C plus the lengths of your lines you use to tap the a/c lines, generally speaking 57 to 113 grams (2-4 oz) depending on the length of the a/c lines. When discharging, you'll want to monitor how much came out to account for when refilling. When filling, you will want monitor how much is going in, as well as your high side:

your A/C high side reading should be:

ambient temperature x 2.3 to 2.4 (for best Killerchiller performance)
ambient temperature x 2.4 to 2.5 (for best compromise)
ambient temperature x 2.5 to 2.6 (for best cabin performance)

^^***these are recommendations, make sure to test your cabin temps and IAT's, you can be lower or higher in psi and still perform just fine. It will vary depending on your environment, but this is simply just a recommendation/guide to help you out with your baseline***

Your A/C low side should be anywhere from 43 - 55 psi (however again this could vary and is dependent on environmental factors). BE CAREFUL TO NOT OVERFILL THE CAPACITY, you'll really tax the pressure relief valve, which is not a serviceable item on the B8.5 Denso a/c compressors so you'll have to replace the entire 

For those that choose to use es-12a industrial, make sure its the industrial, you will only need 2 cans since 6oz of es-12a industrial = 16oz of r134a. Since it only comes in cans, you'll want to fill 1 full can and time how long it to discharge the entire can, and then divide that time in half for can #2. Before starting the next can, take your measurements to see where your high side is. If its in the range of the above, you'll want to stop adding additional a/c fluid. The reason to time can #1 is because you will not need the entire amount from can #2, the total capacity used should only be 1.2 - 1.5 cans, so timing it will allow you to gauge when to turn off the valve from your manifold gauge set. If you end up filling 2 cans and still not see your high side pressures in the 2.3-2.5 range, STOP! you likely have a blockage somewhere or your 
a/c compressor isn't working during the refill. 

ES-12a can be purchased here individually - - - > 
ES-12a can be purchased here in a case of 12 - - - > 

**make sure you purchase the "industrial" version as its colder than the regular es-12a, which itself is colder than r134a**

Why should I use es-12a industrial?

it retains the a/c performance at idle, while providing the benefit of even colder fluids through your s/c cooling loop. You can absolutely use the standard r134a, however expect your at idle in-cabin performance to suffer by 10-15%. Once rolling in traffic, this becomes a non-issue.

Here is a VCDS screenshot of using es-12a industrial, vent temps and evaporator temps remain comfortable (HVAC setting 65*F, fan speed 5)

What are the disadvantages of using es-12a industrial?

It is unknown how this will affect our a/c compressors long-term (or short term for that matter). If you choose to use this, budget for a replacement 
compressor just in case. It's also may not be safe to use in your state, so check your state rules/regulations. As always, be careful using any a/c fluid.

How should I loop my Killerchiller?

You'll want it to be the very last thing in your loop before the fluids goes into the s/c for maximum cooling.

Where should I mount my Killerchiller?

Really anywhere you have space because you can work the a/c and s/c lines however you please. The closer you are to the a/c lines, the better for a/c performance however.

What about condensation in the staging lanes?

I get around this by putting the HVAC on defrost, temp = HI. Absolutely no dripping/condensation. You'll want to stand outside the car though, it gets warm in the cabin& Doing this allows the A/C system to run at max capacity to chill the fluids during stagging. Once you past the burn out box and line up at the tree, shut off the HVAC system completely. On r134a, I've shown in another dyno thread that leaving the A/C system on results in a 14awhp loss throughout the entire powerband. Our compressors DO NOT SHUT OFF completely at WOT, we do not have a traditional clutch-style compressure per say...

On the road, you can go WOT with your a/c system still running, you'll likely not notice the missing 14 awhp (I sure don't). Once you complete your 1/4 mile run, turn on the a/c right away to the same settings above (only this time temp = LO to cool the cabin), get your time slip, and driving the car right back to the staging lanes for another run. Before you reach the staging lanes, put the vent temp back to HI to maximize cooling in the staging lanes and avoid drips onto the track surface which will DQ you.

What other items do I need in addition to the Killerchiller product?

You'll need additional rubber hoses for the s/c cooling loop because the product doesn't come with this. These can be purchased at any home improvement place (3/4" inner diameter is perfect) and are inexpensive. Other than that, nothing, it works with your OEM or upgraded Hx, or if you use your A/C year round you can simply delete your Hx. However if you decide to divorce your systems, you'll need to purchase a divorcing reservoir. The system works just fine with the OEM pump as well, but if you would like to maximize the performance of the unit, an upgraded pump or the "OEM pump mod" can be used to have the pump running at 100% capacity. Keep in mind that if you want to maximize the product, a Hx delete is the best way to do this along with using an aggressive water ratio. Any Hx in the loop may serve as a fluid heater because the fluid flowing out of the s/c is still generally colder than ambient temp. IAT's rising does not equal fluid temps rising in a 1:1 ratio. If you elect to keep the Hx in for the colder months, consider a bypass valve for the warmer months, or stick to the OEM Hx since the smaller surface area will likely not heat the fluid as much as an upgraded version. 

What set-up do I have?

Hx delete
divorced loop w/ reservoir 
upgraded pump
Redline water wetter (1/2 bottle) with the rest being distilled water

I wanted to divorce my loop as it allowed me to run a different water/coolant mixture and not affect the mix in the 
engine loop. The more water you can run through the s/c loop, the better it is for cooling. 90/10 mix is ideal if you can get away with it based on your environmental conditions. 

How are Intake Air Temperatures impacted (IAT)?

Boy, is this an awesome question! I'm currently running a large pulley ratio (3.371) on 57.55 mm supercharger pulley, and a 194 mm crank pulley. My IAT's at the end of 4th gear at 6,500 rpm is anywhere form 63-66*C in VCDS (145 - 151*F). This is in 91*F and 3,025ft density altitude using standard r134a a/c fluid and not the ultra cold es-12a a/c fluid. Previously on this very same pulley arrangement using a traditional upgraded Hx, divorced reservoir, and upgraded pump, my IAT's at the end at the end of 4th gear at 6,500 rpm was anywhere from 85-90*C (185 - 194*F). This sapped ALOT of performance and only made this pulley combination effective for 1 or 2 gear runs in hotter months before the ECU would do whatever it needed to keep the engine happy (pull timing, open the bypass valve to reduce boost). For comparison sake pulley-to-pulley d/a-to-d/a (approx 3,000ft and 90-ish *F) this year with the Killerchiller vs. last year with a traditional upgraded Hx + divorced reservoir+ upgraded pump, I ran 11.343@120.00 mph (with some boost bleed) vs. 11.577@117.66mph (full boost using across the run). That's a big difference in performance and shows that the system maximizes performance for the given ambient conditions.

When I did an apples-to-apples comparison using a 37*C starting point when I had a smaller 187mm 
crank pulley (3.249 pulley ratio) between es-12a and r134a, my es-12a ended at 53*C (127*F) while the r134a ended in 59*C (138*F). Basically, these are very very very low intake air temperatures to end with on our Eaton TVS R1320's, these are actually akin to those on a less aggressive stage 2 set-up running an a cool day with a traditional upgraded Hx arrangement. I have yet to test out the 194mm crank pulley with the es-12a, but I'll post results in another thread once I can make it to track with it.

Where do I hook up the a/c lines?

On the driver’s side for LHD cars. The smaller of the line is your A/C liquid line that hooks to the KC, and the larger line is the suction line (return line). 

This is how the lines should flow through the unit (keep in mind this picture shows an older generation KC, yours will look different but the concept is the same):

Here is where mine is mounted:

Its directly outside of the passenger side 
engine area / engine cradle. There is plenty of space for the unit + all of the lines with nothing being crushed. Some have mounted this on the bumper crash bar, which is also a nice spot, and a few have this mounted on the drivers side (LHD cars).

What about fluid temperatures?

Here is a shot of my reservoir after a few minutes of idling (49.3*F), ambient was 89*F at the time. Keep in mind, this is temperature of the reservoir after the fluids cycled through the hot s/c. When I opened the cap, the actual fluid temp was 42.4*F. However due to only having two hands, I wasn't able to capture a photo, while holding the thermo gun and unscrewing/rescrewing the cap to not make a huge mess. Although I don't have a way to obtain fluid temperatures prior to going into the blower, you can expect the fluid temp to be colder than 42.4*F. Again this is was taken on an 89*F ambient day.